Hooray! We won the march! Marshans Cyrdyk!
(first explanation, conclusions at the end of the article)
Marshantia (liver moss) is a new insidious danger to our garden plots.
A kind of Serpent Gorynych, with which you need to fight and maybe you will be able to defeat him?
It looks like a small, flattened green filth, like either a lichen or a mud. (This is a ruderal - weed plant that grows in areas with damaged soil cover).
If you pick it up, “roots” that look like sticky webs (whitish tender rhizoids = roots analogs - outgrowths of cell walls) and even a microscopic piece left will renew its wild growth.
Theoretically, marshaltia is found on acidic wet soils, somewhere along the banks of streams, in the shadow of deep forests, on old campfires. But in practice, she comes to us with many imported plants (Poland and Holland are direct harmful suppliers of it!) Hiding noticeably or unobtrusively near the roots of bushes and flowers. A little gardener yawned a little, let this dragon in on the plot, and write "Lost!". It quickly spreads over all clean weeded areas, attacks the hill, the paths, the vegetable beds, and even the gravel-filled area for cars. I have already seen the areas where the marshland "mud" tightened huge meadows. horror!
Forming a dense, as if rubber covering from thalli, it fills everything around, hindering the development of cultivated plants, especially small tender seedlings of seedlings. And the “hat” that appeared on a thin leg (in the summer female and male supports grow — organs of sexual reproduction) harbors millions of spores that, flying around, infect everything more than swine flu.
Where does marshantia not grow? Where there is grass to the waist. (But in these bushes we are waited by another unkillable living creature snails! About them, in the next section). Sewing of slag tracks helped a little, for about two years the march practically got out of these places.
That does not help in the fight against marshals, and that you can not waste time: the usual means of weed control such as Tornado and Roundup, even in strong concentration. Iron sulfate, which poison lichens on trees. This sour soil lover was covered with ash (alkali) 2 cm thick, but it only damaged the surrounding flowers when the wind lifted the upper layers of ash and burned the leaves of garden plants. They tried to spray the marshallion with various flammable liquids and set fire to them, but there was a lot of fuss, but proca zero.
We decided to spray a strong solution of bleach (the good places on the paths far from good plants abound). The ugly marshaltia was burned, turned white, shriveled, but, like Snake Gorynych, soon grew its new vile shoots.
Well, we think that once bleaching powder takes the marshallion, we throw at it the local atomic bomb “Niamid 500”. This is a super-bleach with additives, which usually pickle wood from all sorts of fungi and molds. Cleans and whitens wood and, as it seems, kills all living things within a radius of 10 km!
Even in summer, in order to use this tool, I put on thick trousers, a jacket with a hood, gloves, goggles and a respirator. Marshantia squeaked and shrank, turned white and disappeared before our eyes! An organism that had sniffed means coughing and itching. Snake Gorynych sluggishly lifted up his paws and pretended to be dead. Two weeks. After that, the new vigorous young shoots stretched to a bed of petunias.
Remark: in the fall of 2016, we were testing a new tool (until I say which one), but an environmentally friendly one, from which the march "burns down" with smoke and crackle, without at all damaging the neighboring plants!
In the meantime, in the destruction of the march, only hard labor of manual labor helped: from the roots of plants, all this filth was carefully picked out, and immediately mulched with peat or sand, so that small remains were more difficult to germinate (foreigners use crumb crust for mulching, but this is not suitable for all plants because bark is spruce-pine and contains resin). If there is no mulch, try to well-blast the top layer and leave it in the sun to dry. It helps some.
In open areas, I tamper with a spade marshal with a land grab of 2 cm and, like a pancake, turn it upside down. It really helps! For two weeks, she is dying of grief and lack of light. Full shading also helps, for example with a black film or a thick layer of slag (a thin layer of granite sifting did not help). I also want to try to fill it with lime, the remedy is itself very juicy and soil is deoxidized.
But, in general, the struggle with the vile mashanka reminds me of footage from a movie about a robot policeman, when the enemy smashed to pieces, suddenly came alive with mercury balls, and began to inevitably gather into a single whole.
And then a miracle happened. A stray buy-and-sell stall came to our kennel, and began to moan, "Aunty, buy a bottle. Here is the instruction, so much can be useful for the household." I didn’t need the tool at all, but it was a pity for the boy, I bought the smallest bottle, and, following a longstanding habit, I went to try it at the marshall.
She hissed, began to squeeze, went either parok, or smoke. Yo-ho-ho! The beginning was encouraging.
There are no coincidences in life. Very soon, behind this incident, an acquaintance priest drove up near a tiny temple at the cancer hospital in the village of Shortbread. He told how after the baptism in the hospital wards, the most severe patients began to recover. How did the administration of the settlement allow to build a bigger temple, only where are the funds to be taken? I mentally made a promise: if the tool nails the march, I will try to get money for the temple.
Have you ever seen how agronomists dance the "joyful excitement" dance, making intricate pirouettes with their feet? And I happened to dance it. Marshantia died!
Now, as if in a dream that had come true, I walked around the site, looking for the smallest parts of it with my eyes and sprinkling it from a hand sprayer. Beauty! The hard work of picking out pieces with tweezers is forgotten.
Prevention of the appearance of the march station
The negative consequences of the appearance of the march station are that it grows very strongly, covering the ground with a solid carpet. As a result, the marshal does not allow oxygen to penetrate to the roots of garden plants and flowers and they do not receive the nutrients they need. This moss almost does not interfere with large plants. But young seedlings and new tender shoots may die. Especially dangerous marshaltia for species of small alpine flowers.
Description of the march
Marshantia is a type of liver moss. Belongs to the family of Marshans. Marshantia has about 50 species. This is a perennial plant that grows in the form of emerald lobed leaves, they spread along the surface of the soil, have roots called rhizoids, with their help the plant can attach even to water. On the upper surface of the leaves are visible cups, where brood buds are located, they fall from adult plants and young sprouts grow from them. Antheridia (male flowers) appear on special processes, which may consist of a shield and a thin stalk. Archegonia (female flowers) are on other outgrowths that have the appearance of an asterisk on the stem.
In the wild, marshaltia grows in temperate zones - it loves shade and plenty of moisture, it can grow on rocks, on the banks of streams, on old fires.
She likes land with acidic characteristics. The marshaltia can get to the garden plot together with the plants sent from Holland or Poland. Since she loves moisture, when the weather is rainy, the whole area can be covered with plants, even if it is well lit, as the earth becomes thicker and ragged and the acidity rises.
Methods of dealing with marshal
The most popular methods of weed control are:
- If only marshaltia grows on a large area, then it is removed by copper sulfate. The use of herbicides Roundup and Tornado do not help much for its destruction, as it multiplies by spores, and when applying herbicides useful garden crops can die.
- Tear the marshalation manually, making sure that nothing is left. Then cultivate the soil with a cultivator, as the moss likes compacted soil. Determine the acidity of the soil. To do this, boil the solution of currant leaves or cherry, cool it. Put some land into it. If the solution turns red, then you have a sour earth. If the solution turned green, then you have neutral soil. If the solution turned blue, then the soil is medium acid. You can do a test to determine the reaction of the soil differently. Type land from different places of the plot. Sign where you got it from. Pour the soil from the container into 1/2 cup of vinegar. If you see bubbles or sizzles, the earth is alkaline. Next, pour into the other glass half the baking soda and pour water almost to the top, place the ground. If the earth hisses or bubbles, it is sour.
- Pour the ash and lime into the ground to reduce the acidity, then grumble with heavily crushed bark and mowed grass or peat crumb and grass. Mulch in order to the moss did not hit the light, then the marshaltia will grow poorly. For rock garden, take peat as mulch, as it is heated under the sun and dries the marshallion. Then add the lime again.
- Marshans like open spaces that are in the shade and have high humidity, so sow mustard, meadow clover, peas, and colza. They grow and cover the area with a solid carpet. Plant garden crops directly into these siderats, making the holes a garden auger. When the seedlings rise a little, you can mow the green manure and mumble the plants with them. In the autumn after harvesting, re-sow the green manure, you can do it before winter. So you improve the site.
- Change the top layer of soil, remove the ground with a marshal of a wide knife, hoe, ploskorezom.
- Tighten the area with black film and wait until the moss disappears completely.
- Very early in the spring, pour boiling water over the earth with the addition of potassium permanganate and copper sulfate.
A little bit about the march
As I already wrote above, the marshaltia is liver moss multiplying by spores. Spores ripen on "pedestal-supports" located above the "trunk" of moss. Men's coasters are usually round, women's - in the form of a star. In addition, on the moss plates one can see “baskets” - inside them brood bodies develop, from which new plants appear. Thanks to such methods of breeding marshaltia very quickly conquers free territory.
If you believe the encyclopedia, the marshalcy loves wet, acidic and compacted soils, but in fact, as it turned out, it grows on ordinary garden soil, only an important condition is humidity and acidic soil.
This is probably very difficult, because if you manually remove the marshals, then in the soil there is still a part of its cobweb roots, from which new plants sprout. Chemical agents such as roundup also "do not take it." This is due to the fact that such chemicals are absorbed into the "vessels" of the plant and act from the inside, destroying the plant. In this case, there is one continuous thallus and nothing more. Well, plus a very rapid reproduction of spores. Also not suitable for the fight and iron sulfate, which are perfectly destroyed by other mosses. He does not take a marshal.
The struggle with this malicious, but beautiful moss is complicated and long. Firstly, if you have constantly wet soil due to close groundwater or constant rain, be sure to do the drainage. Marshantia does not like dry areas.
Next, in early spring, while there are still no disputes, collect the marshal directly with the top layer of soil in which its roots are located, put it in a plastic bag or metal container, then when you burn garbage, burn and moss, shake it out of the container together with the ground . Then, after collecting the moss, carefully dig up the soil, scattering any substance that reduces the acidity of the soil (chalk, lime, ash, etc.). And plant the siderats. Marshantia does not like loose non-acidic soil, as well as dense vegetation.
Then, after a couple of weeks, after the siderats sprout (or just before you need to plant), mow the green mass and leave it on the lot as mulch. And seedlings or seeds should be planted directly into the remaining green "mat", making holes in it directly. The green manure roots loosen the ground, and the green mass grinds the surface, which creates unfavorable conditions for the growth of moss.
For some time, the march will quieten down, but you can not fully relax. And at the first signs of its appearance, remove it from the soil, loosening and re-draining this area. By the way, peat can be used as a material for drainage, for example, on Alpine hills, and also on beds, as it dries quickly and also warms well in the sun, and the march doesn’t like dry and warm places.
By the way, I also heard that the affected area in early spring can be spilled with boiling water, it destroys this plant and its disputes. But I did not try, so I can not argue.
Ways to fight
You can fight marshals in the garden in different ways. The effectiveness of the methods will be different, but the costs (physical and financial) are also not constant.
We recommend that you study all possible methods of dealing with this weed and find for yourself the most effective and optimal:
- The mechanical method of destroying moss involves manually removing it from the entire plot. The procedure is a bit difficult, but very effective. After all the moss is torn out, it is necessary to gnaw the soil, as the weed loves dense soil. Next you need to do a soil analysis for acidity. Marshantia loves acidic soils, and if you do not neutralize, the weed is more likely to reappear on your plot.
Soon the moss will disappear, because it will not withstand competition with other densely growing plants,
Do not forget that the march multiplies in two ways:
- microscopic spores that the wind carries over long distances,
- brood buds that fall out of the cups of an adult plant and germinate next to it.
This is important to consider when dealing with weed. For example, even if you plow the soil, the moss will disappear only for a while, but the spores remain in the soil and soon will sprout again. That is why cardinal methods of struggle are needed: to neutralize the acidic soil, plant it with green mans, and mulch regularly.
How to get rid of moss on the ground in the garden: folk remedies and chemistry
Moss is a phenomenon that can occur anywhere. It may be the roof of the house, a tree, paths in the garden, it may even appear on the ground in the garden. To get rid of it you will have to apply modern methods or resort to the use of folk remedies. After all, moss does not bring any benefit, but only spoils the aesthetic appearance of the land plot.
Moss in the garden: the causes of
Through the influence of the following factors, moss can appear in your garden:
- constant shadow on the plot,
- excess moisture in the soil,
- excess or lack of fertilizer in the soil,
- high acidity of the earth
- low cut grass.
If you look at the moss with your eyes, you can determine the cause of its occurrence.
- If the soil is dry or excessively acidic, then the moss has straight and rather long processes, green above and brown at the base.
- If the garden is constantly wet, then the plant will travel along the land cover.
- And in the event that the grass is mown very low, then the plant will spread like a green mat.
Moss in the greenhouse
Moss appeared in your greenhouse and you noticed it? You should not postpone its elimination for later. You need to get rid of it right away so that the problem does not become large-scale.
- First of all, you need to take care of good ventilation of the greenhouse. This also applies to the soil.
- It is not enough just to open the doors and windows, you also need to use the forks to loosen the earth and saturate it with oxygen.
- Deepening the forks will depend on the season. In the spring - superficially, in the autumn - deeply. The distance between the holes should be at least 15 centimeters. Thus, the soil is saturated with oxygen.
- Если земля в теплице обладает высоким уровнем кислотности, то его можно поправить с помощью удобрений. Весной, перед посевом семян, нужно перекопать почву и добавить в нее нужное удобрение.
Вот мы и рассмотрели все способы, которые помогут избавиться от мха на огороде и садовом участке. If you do it right, the plant will no longer give you extra worries.
Why does moss grow on a bed and how to fight it on your own
Many gardeners trying to get rid of moss do not understand that its appearance is an indicator that there are no conditions for growing vegetables on the site. In other words, this weed is not the cause of the problems, but the effect. It does not displace plants, but simply takes places where nothing else grows. To find out why moss grows on the beds, it is necessary to determine which of the possible causes of the problem relates to a particular plot and eliminate it. Otherwise, instead of the destroyed moss, a new one will soon grow.
Causes of moss
The reason why the ground turns green in the garden can be not only moss, but also algae. Finding out what exactly grows on a plot is easy: algae grows more often in greenhouses with poor ventilation and good natural light, while mosses love shaded areas, both outdoors and in greenhouses, and feel good under artificial light.
Green carpet has no place in the garden
The following factors can not only create an ideal environment for moss, but also inhibit the growth of vegetables:
- Compacted soil - soil compaction negatively affects the root system of plants. This soil has a flat surface, which contributes to the growth of weed.
- Poor drainage - wet clayey or even swampy soil literally smothers the roots of cultivated plants, and also provides a moist weedy environment.
- Low pH (acidity) of the soil - vegetables need a moderate or slightly acidic environment.
- Lack of sunlight - in the shade beds are covered with moss much faster.
- Lack of nutrients (organic) in the soil. Moss appears even on very poor clay soils.
- Application of a large amount of phosphate fertilizers.
- The introduction of organic matter containing spores under favorable conditions for their germination on the site.
Overgrowth - an indicator of poor conditions
To find out which of these reasons led to the fact that the beds are covered with moss, it is possible by its appearance:
- the soil in the area is acidic and dry, if it has upright shoots with a brown base and green tops,
- in shaded areas with poor drainage - the stems spread along the ground,
- with insufficient nutrients - grows beautiful green "carpet",
- water stagnation causes the weed to appear in the grooves and crevices of the soil.
It is necessary not only to remove the moss from the site, but also to eliminate the reason for its germination.
Finding out why the moss grows on the beds, and removing it by mechanical or chemical means, it is necessary to start fighting the causes.
What is dangerous moss on the garden
Beautiful green moss for decorative purposes on stones, fences and in Japanese gardens is designed to promote relaxation, while appearing where it has never been there is a cause for concern. This plant is not a parasite, but it does not appear by chance either. Since moss requires completely different conditions than cultivated plants, its appearance indicates the presence of problems on the site.
How moss harms beds
By themselves, mosses do not harm plantings, but when they appear in the garden, they change conditions, thereby inhibiting the growth of cultivated plants:
- soil drainage is deteriorating, it is becoming more compacted, making it harder to grow vegetables,
- acidity increases, which also adversely affects the growth of most garden plants and increases their incidence,
- on wet soils, it prevents the evaporation of moisture, which can lead to the appearance of fungal plant diseases,
- use nutrients, thereby depleting the soil,
- Oxygen does not penetrate the soil densely overgrown with mosses, which leads to the inhibition of the root system of vegetables and the suppression of beneficial soil microorganisms,
- through dense moss cover seeds germinate poorly,
- in the thickets of moss pests of garden crops may settle and multiply.
Overgrowing with moss impairs soil quality
The most harmful, especially for greenhouses, is liver moss marshaltia. Outwardly, it resembles a lichen, and the roots look like a thin web. At the same time, even a small piece of the march station, left in the ground, can lead to the overgrowth of the beds in a dense, as if “rubber” coating. Marshantia almost completely blocks access of oxygen to the soil and roots of cultivated plants. Her spores often infect Polish and Dutch seeds and bulbs.
The benefits and harm for strawberries
On the bed with strawberries moss grows most often. He settled here because of the optimal conditions - high humidity and acidity of the soil. By itself, this weed is not harmful to strawberries, but overgrowing in a continuous layer, such as marsation, for example, can greatly trap moisture. This creates conditions for the development of fungi and deteriorates the structure of the soil.
But there is this weed and benefits that can be used to grow strawberries. This berry prefers a well-drained, evenly hydrated, slightly acidified soil. The use of dry peat moss mulch from peat moss or adding it to the humus will help ease the soil structure, retain moisture and maintain the optimum pH level for strawberries. This mulch will suit other plants that prefer acidic soil.
Mechanical and chemical removal
To begin the process of dealing with moss on the beds should be directly from its removal. For environmentally safe removal with your own hands, you can use mechanical methods:
- Cutting the layers of the plant with a shovel. After this, the beds need to be loosened with a cultivator or manually and mulched. As mulch, you can use grass mowed with lawns, half-sawdust sawdust, straw, bark, needles of conifers. It is best to remove in early spring, when there are still frosts and the layers of the plant are well separated from the ground.
- Cutting off plant layers with topsoil and backfilling fresh soil. In this case, contaminated soil should be removed from the site. Before filling the new soil surface skimming. To do this, sprinkle the ground with quicklime, and a day later extinguish it with water. Fresh soil can be filled up after the lime has dried.
Weed is best in early spring.
How to remove the moss from the beds with the help of chemicals:
- If the overgrown areas are small, you can use a solution of soda with soap or dishwashing detergent. For 2 liters of water take 200 g of baking soda. The solution is sprayed onto the infected areas.
- English gardeners use slightly different proportions and ingredients: 1 tablespoon of baking soda, 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, 1/4 teaspoon of castor liquid soap in 4 liters of water.
- In the autumn, spray on the soil surface 5% solution of copper or iron sulphate. For processing one weave will need about 2 liters of solution.
- Of the potent methods, any glyphosate-containing herbicide, ferrous or ammonium sulphate. To prepare the solution, you need to take 90 ml of ferrous sulfate per 20 l of water or 60-150 ml of copper sulphate per 16 l of water. This solution is enough for processing about three hundred parts.
- You can quickly and easily cope with the problem by treating the weed with dichlorophene solution.
Copper sulfate and herbicides to combat mosses are used only as a last resort, since they not only destroy the weeds, but also harm the communities of soil microorganisms and can accumulate in the soil.
Marshantia - one of the difficult to remove weeds in the garden
Improved bed conditions
After removing the moss, care must be taken to ensure that it does not grow out of the dispute again. For this it is necessary to eliminate the factors that contribute to its growth. What to do if moss grows on the beds after it is removed from the soil surface:
- Improve soil aeration and reduce its acidity by removing the top layer and pouring fresh earth mixed with chalk or hydrated lime. Lime is desirable to make the fall, as it can burn the roots of plants. In the spring, you can use ground limestone, dolomite flour or chalk. If there are already plants on the garden bed, it is possible to scatter wood ash over the soil surface. An easier way is to add a little straw dung and ash to the soil when digging.
- Drain the soil, digging grooves around the perimeter of the beds. Align the area to prevent stagnation of water. In order for water to better seep through clayey soil, humus and sand are introduced into it.
- Improve air circulation. Perhaps the beds are in a place where there is no wind and dew lingers for a long time, for example, surrounded by buildings and deaf fences. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to change anything fundamentally - you can either move the beds, or put up a fence that will not interfere with air circulation. Often this problem occurs in greenhouses, where it is much easier to provide fresh air.
- To the maximum eliminate the shadow on the site. To do this, you can cut down the trees creating shade or bushes, or at least cut off their lower branches.
- Feed fertilizer regularly with organic fertilizer, compost or manure. To increase the amount of organic matter, you can sow the garden with siderata: oats, mustard, lupine, before planting crops.
Siderats actively help fight any weeds
Some gardeners recommend in the early spring to water the beds with boiling water with manganese or a blowtorch. But this method can destroy all the beneficial microorganisms in the soil.
In order not to think about how to destroy the moss in the garden, you can prevent its occurrence by properly caring for the garden:
- Any reservoir, located near or on the site, contributes to waterlogging of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to dig or renew the grooves for outflow of thawed and rainwater every spring.
- You can organize the drainage system. To do this, along the perimeter of the site, they dig canals with a depth of 40–50 cm to 2 m. From above the pipes are covered with rubble and earth. Excess water from the site flows through the pipes into a barrel buried in the ground. From the barrel make overflow into the ditch.
- Be sure to annually make organic fertilizer, or sow green manure. This will help to fully develop cultivated plants and will not allow the weeds to grow.
- For complex feeding use fertilizers with nitrogen - such as nitroammofoska and ammonium nitrate.
- In order to avoid shading of beds, regularly carry out trimming of bushes and trees.
- To make the soil more friable and light by introducing humus or compost and pine needles into it. Pine needles can be replaced with semi-sawdust.
- For better drainage, eliminate indentations and irregularities of the site and add sand to the soil when digging.
- In order to deprive the weeds of favorable conditions and increase the yield of vegetable crops, high beds are constructed, limited by a box of wood, slate, concrete or any available materials. The soil for them is prepared specially and spread out in layers.
Weeds do not grow on correctly made high beds
Most of the attempts of gardeners to get rid of the moss on the beds with their own hands ends in failure. The reason for this is the wrong approach to weed control. You should not throw all the power to eliminate the plant itself - just remove it mechanically. But the fight against the causes of weed should devote enough time and effort. After eliminating the problems of the site, you will not only remove the moss from the beds, but also create the best conditions for garden crops.
How to get rid of moss in the garden plot professional gardener?
The difficult question to decide how to get rid of moss in the garden plot is an unfortunate owner, often asked by various categories of owners of such sites. The information about the safety of this plant for horticultural crops is not very encouraging. First, sloppy stains do not improve the appearance of lovingly cherished lawns and plantations. And secondly, let the moss and harmless by itself, but it gives shelter to a huge number of pests that easily cause damage to our plantings. According to the observations of gardeners, this is almost the most difficult weed. It remains only to sympathize with those who settled moss in the garden plot. How to defeat him, many generations of gardeners thought, and their experience will certainly come in handy.
How to get rid of moss in the garden plot zealous owner: save the trees
"Beard" on garden trees is formed mainly where the sun warms them insufficiently. Not just from the north side, but also if the shadow of the plot in this place is increased. The simplest and most effective, although quite labor-intensive, way to get rid of moss in the garden plot is a persistent grower, is mechanical, manual cleaning of the trunks. To do this, make a wooden scraper or look for a plastic, not too hard. The moss layer is removed to healthy wood so that not even the slightest traces of unnecessary vegetation are left. It is better to do this in the spring: the moss separates more easily, and possible damage to the trunk will heal faster. After stripping, the place is treated with fluff or a weak, up to three percent, solution of blue vitriol.
If you don’t often visit your garden and you don’t have time for manual cleaning, there is another method of how to get rid of moss in a garden plot even an inexperienced beginner summer resident. Potash is diluted in the bucket in the usual way, but with the addition of 150 grams of carbolic acid. If there is no potash, five kilos of wood ash is poured for two days with ten liters of water - and you get the desired liquid. Moss-hit areas are generously processed with a warm solution - and after a couple of days, it dies off and falls off. If you do not be lazy to whitewash in the spring of trunks, for about five years you are guaranteed from new weed plantations.
Ways to get rid of moss on the garden plot are primarily aimed at reducing its excessive moisture and acidity - it is the acidic soil for the plant that is most attractive. And it is not necessary to construct a complex drainage system. In most cases, local actions justify themselves:
- The relief is slightly smoothed with a regular shovel to get rid of the dimples, where water constantly stagnates. From the place where the water has nowhere to go, a drain is dug through - a regular groove that will drain sediment.
- In some places, punctures no more than a meter deep are made, sand is poured into the holes - this improves the drainage characteristics of the soil.
- The acidity of the earth is reduced by the elemental mixing of chalk, detailed to the state of powder, or lime. Approximate dose - spoon per square meter. Instructions on how to get rid of moss on the lawn forever, is simple: it is raked, the earth is limed and maintained in such a state all the time. And so that the moss thickets do not return, aerate the soil at least once a year. The device and the purchase is not necessary - you can borrow or rent.
In order not to look for methods of how to get rid of moss on the lawn, and not to experiment constantly with their use, do not create conditions for the growth of weed. Remember: the shadow, supported by high humidity and depletion of the soil - the perfect "resort" for moss. He is quite satisfied with the soil on which no one else survives. And the maintenance of the elementary order in the area greatly limits its vital range.
- Wood deposits and remnants of building materials should be stored in the premises - a garage or shed.
- When a new building is being laid, even if it will be a warehouse for household equipment, it needs to be planned so that it obscures as little space as possible, especially if it rarely sees the sun.
- Lush crowns and overgrown shrubs need to be thinned regularly - this is good for their health, and reduces the risk of again painfully thinking how to get rid of moss in the garden area.
- Fertilize even the places where you currently do not grow anything, say, the earth is resting. It’s better to grow ordinary grass there than moss. It would be good to sow vacant areas with any lawn vegetation that does not require special care, as long as the land is not empty.
Plants to help
If there is no place to go from the shade, planting unduly shaded areas with plants that relate well to the lack of lighting will be a good step. In the first rows of the list - bent, fescue, chaff, ferns and bluegrass. From flowering decoratively enough - brunner, host, astilba, hellebore, hydrangea, geykher and medunits. With the help of these herbs, you can very aesthetically design your garden, and not give any chance to malicious mosses.
How to get rid of moss in the country: methods, folk methods, tips
Many gardeners and gardeners ask questions about the presence of moss in the suburban areas. Is moss harmful or good for cultivated plants? What are the reasons for its appearance? How to get rid of moss in the country and remove this plant from the garden? After examining such scrupulous questions, experienced agronomists give exhaustive answers. Let's try to figure it out in our article.
Why does moss affect plants negatively?
- Moss consumes carbon dioxide, mineral salts and moisture from the soil. Он забирает воды такое количество, которое превышает способности впитывания ватой на двадцать пять процентов.
- Нарушает газообмен и аэрацию земли.
- Высасывает питательные вещества необходимые культурным растениям.
- Закисляет грунт.
- Заболачивает территорию
- За счет выше перечисленных моментов тормозится развитие растений и, как следствие, снижается урожайность.
Приносит ли мох садоводам пользу?
Undoubtedly, and not only in horticulture:
Having found out that both moss has a lot of positive and negative properties, it is worthwhile to dwell on the fact that for agriculture, for its intended purpose, moss is a plant that causes harm. It is detrimental to land and greenhouse crops.