General information

Apple Tree Screen


Onion-grade apples are appreciated for their beautiful appearance and excellent taste.

Given the high yield and ability not to lose their properties when stored for up to five months, this variety is confidently gaining popularity in horticultural farms. The unpretentiousness of apple trees and their resistance to diseases contribute to this.

What kind is it?

Onscreen - a hybrid variety of apples of the autumn harvest, well tolerated in winter, unpretentious, moderately resistant to diseases, high yields.

Hybrid obtained at the breeding station of Sverdlovsk, is popular among gardeners of the Urals and Ural. Approved for distribution in the East-Siberian region, included in the State Register of the Volga-Vyatka region. Promising for distribution over a wider area.

Self-infertile variety, However, The screen is perfectly pollinated by other varieties growing in the same area.

Apples can be processed in any way, they easily transfer transportation. Fruits can be stored for up to 5 months without losing taste. The best way to store is to lie in a cellar, on a balcony or in a refrigerator, when placed in a vegetable pit in a packed form, decay begins from the inside.

Variety Description Screen

The photo shows a branch of apple varieties on-screen and the description below.

  1. The tree of the Screen variety grows medium in size (about 3 meters) and grows quickly.
  2. Crown shape - round, sprawling, medium density.
  3. The shoots are round, thin, curved, at the bottom grow almost perpendicular to the trunk, curving up. The thickness of the shoots is small, the section is rounded, the bark on them is smooth, brownish-brown. The main branches are covered with bark with a green tinge.
  4. The tree is lined with a medium degree, the leaf is medium-sized, finely wrinkled, the color is dark green. Leaf shape is round or oval, with elongated petioles, at the top of the leaf - a short sharpening, along the edge - serrate teeth.
  5. Buds creamy color, flowers medium size, white and pinkish, cup-shaped.
  6. Fruit weight reaches 90 g, sometimes even 100 g. Formed mainly on spears and kolchatka biennials. Apples are distinguished by a regular rounded shape, with an unexpressed funnel, often on it a one-sided influx. Fruits are covered with a smooth peel with gloss, there is a waxy bloom. The main color is a light greenish, with a pronounced reddish-pink or purple blush all over the surface.
  7. The flesh is light cream, high density and juiciness, pricking type, with a fine grain, tender. Tastes are good, the taste is sour-sweet. The aroma is moderately expressed, pleasant.

  • sugar - 10.6%, can be up to 15.6%,
  • fruit acids - 0.66-0.98%,
  • catechins - 167.8-320.3 mg per 100 g,
  • ascorbic acid - capacity reduced: 6.16 mg per 100 g

Breeding history

Tasty, juicy, beautiful, fruitful grade of apples Screen grown by Sverdlovsk gardening breeding station in 2002. Authorship and patent belong to the famous breeder Kotov Leonid Andrianovich.

The variety is obtained as a result of fertilization of the variety Yantar with pollen Gem, Asterisk and Orange. The greatest probability belongs to Zvezdochka - this conclusion was made on the basis of the appearance of strongly pronounced characteristics of this variety in the hybrid.

Natural growth region

Screen was launched with the aim of spreading in the Urals, in the same region and received the widest popularity. However, due to its unpretentiousness to the soil and climatic conditions, this variety is easily adapted in other horticultural regions.

Moreover, bred specifically for the harsh climatic conditions of the Middle Urals, in regions with a milder climate, this variety gets better, grows better and bears fruit. Apple trees do not require special conditions; they can be grafted onto other varieties or grown in shtambov way (that is, as separate trees).


Up to 64 kg of apples can be obtained from one tree, on average - 20 kg.

During the years of testing, 54 centners received from a hectare (this is 6.4 centners more than Antonovka), for 6 years of cultivation, this figure rose to 116 centners.

Fruiting occurs on the third or fifth year after the graft engraftment and on the sixth and seventh - after planting the seedling. Crop harvested in late August or early September, an indicator of the maturity of the fruit - a dark brown color of seeds.

Planting and care

The screen is not demanding on the soil and climate, the conditions for its planting or vaccination are determined by standard rules. The difference in conditions may affect perhaps the chemical composition of the fruit.

Planting time seedling - from spring to autumn. In spring and summer, cloudy days with lower air temperature are better suited for planting.. If the sapling has already bloomed - you need to cut off all the flowers, so that the plant spends maximum strength to take root. But nevertheless it is best to plant a tree in the middle of autumn - then the full growth of the tree will begin next year.

After planting the seedling requires abundant watering..

Since the variety is self-infertile, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of pollination by other varieties. There are no special requirements, it is enough to grow other varieties of apple trees nearby, - The screen is highly pollinated.

Diseases and pests

Apple Trees Screen resistant to scab.

Separate cases of the disease are observed in years with high humidity and epiphytoties (epidemic spread of infectious plant diseases), that is, when a general increase in the incidence is observed.

If the year was wet, you definitely need special treatment for scab, powdery mildew. To pests resistance is also average, with large volumes of infection the tree will need treatment.

Screen received high recommendations of gardeners for high taste and good yield, winter hardiness and unpretentiousness. Tasty, ruddy apples of this variety are stored for a long time. and can decorate even the New Year's table. In addition, they are well tolerated transportation. Quite good harvesting for the winter of these apples, including juices.

The history of creating an apple

The variety of apples Screen was registered in 2002. This variety of trees was bred in the Sverdlovsk Horticulture Breeding Station. The patent belongs to LA Kotov, a well-known breeder.

The hybrid was created by crossing the following apple trees: Asterisk, Orange, Gem.

Characteristics of the apple

Description of apple varieties Screen:

The plant is unpretentious. You can grow it in most parts of the Russian Federation. However, the yield of fruit trees is higher in the following regions: in the Ural region and the Volga-Vyatka region. This variety of apple trees in general is characterized by high yields - on average, about 20 kg of fruit can be obtained from a tree, and some gardeners sometimes brought this figure to 50 kg.

The plant is resistant to many diseases. In particular, this species of apple is resistant to scab.

Important! With prolonged torrential rains, the resistance of the plant to diseases decreases. Therefore, from time to time you need to carry out the treatment of plants from pests and diseases.

The height of the tree trunk does not exceed 3 meters. The tree grows with high speed. The crown of trees is sprawling and has a round shape of medium density. Tree branches are compactly located and directed to the top. The bark of the trunk and branches is smooth and has a greenish tint. The leaves of the apple tree are of medium size, round or oval, dark green in color. Blossoming rather plentiful, flowers of the average size, white color with a pink shade.

Characteristics of ripe fruit:

  • apples of medium size (weight of one fruit is about 90 g),
  • fruits have a rounded shape, without flaws,
  • color is light green, with a slight reddish blush.

The peel of a ripe fruit has a smooth surface with a glossy shine. The flesh of the fruit has a cream shade, after cutting it quickly darkens and becomes dark orange or brown.

Ripe apple is very juicy, boasts a pleasant sweet-sour taste. A ripe apple smells very nice. Experts who evaluated the taste and appearance of apples rated this variety as 4.7 out of 5. Harvesting is done in the middle or at the end of autumn.

Ripe apples on screen

Features care for an apple tree

The plant is unpretentious and does not require special care. Seedlings can be planted in spring and autumn. It is allowed to plant seedlings in the summer, but only on rainy days. At the same time you need to know that when planting in the summer, seedlings require more maintenance and much more difficult to take root. The most favorable period for planting seedlings is mid-autumn. It is during this period that the plant takes root best.

1-2 months before planting you need to dig a hole. This is done to ensure that the earth subsided. The depth and width of the hole is determined by the development of the seedling root system. The approximate dimensions of the hole - a depth of 60 cm and a width of 80 cm. In the hole you need to fall asleep fertilizer and only after planting an apple seedling.

Important! Blooming of saplings is not allowed. If the tree is still blooming, then you need to get rid of all the flowers. Such a radical measure is needed so that all the forces of the seedling are aimed at strengthening the root.

With the onset of spring, seedlings should be watered frequently (at least 2 buckets of water at a time). In order for the plant to settle down faster, it is advisable to fertilize and enrich the soil. The best means for enriching the soil are nitrogen fertilizers.

This variety of apple trees belongs to the self-fruitless varieties, therefore it is necessary to create conditions for pollination of flowers by other apple trees.

Attention! In the spring and summer, preventive measures should be taken, treating plants from pests and diseases. This should be done despite the fact that the plant is sufficiently resistant to diseases. It is also recommended to periodically apply a middle layer of lime on the lower part of the trunk.

In summer, all care is reduced to frequent watering. If the branches of the apple are damaged or begin to dry up, then they are desirable to cut.

In autumn, the soil should be enriched with mineral fertilizers. In late autumn, the roots of the tree need to be warmed. For this, the ground around should be covered with any insulating materials.

Before the onset of winter you need to protect the trunk of the plant from pests. To do this, around the trunk need to lay peat and compost. Also, the trunks need to be tightly tied with lapnik. In this case, the rodents will not be able to reach the tree and damage its bark and trunk.

If the care is correct, then the apple tree will begin to bear fruit for 3-5 years after budding, or for 6-7 years after planting a new apple tree.

Attention! In the first year the tree gives a small crop. However, with each year yields will increase.

Harvesting is desirable to produce carefully, without damaging the branches and fruits. To transport and store ripe apples should be in boxes or boxes. Taste allows you to use the fruit for different purposes. The variety of apples onscreen can be:

  • use fresh,
  • dry,
  • freeze,
  • make jams and preserves from them
  • squeeze juice
  • cook cider

For long-term storage is required to collect immature fruits. Keep the crop in a cool dark place, preferably in a cellar or a refrigerator. With proper storage, fruits can maintain their presentation for 5 months.

The advantages and disadvantages of the variety

This variety of apples is mainly characterized on the positive side. It has a large number of advantages, the main of which are:

  • Presentation: the fruits as on selection - small, light green color, with a red or pink blush.
  • Ripe apple has excellent taste and pleasant smell. Experts estimate the taste of this class of 4.7 points out of 5.
  • High yield: up to 50 kg of fruits can be collected from a single tree.
  • Versatility: apples can be used for making juices, compotes, jams, preserves.
  • The possibility of long-term storage: when you create the necessary conditions, the fruits can maintain their appearance and taste up to 5 months.

The disadvantages of this variety of apple trees are not many. The main disadvantages are:

  • Low ascorbic acid content.
  • Low content of other nutrients.
  • The need to create conditions for pollination.

More deficiencies in apple varieties Screen no. The apple tree requires the same care as any other fruit tree.

The variety of apples Screen is very popular among gardeners. All this is due to its high yield, taste and presentation. In addition, this type of fruit trees has almost no flaws, except for the low content of nutrients in the fruit. The plant does not require special care. You can grow a fruit tree of this variety throughout Russia.

Planting apple trees

You can plant an apple tree in the spring before bud breaks or in the autumn before the onset of frost for 2-3 months to allow the tree to take root. It is believed that when planting in autumn, the seedling takes root better, but in the Non-Black Earth region it is preferable to postpone planting in the spring.

Planting an apple tree. Photos from the site

  • Prepare holes in advance in the fall. If you plant in the fall, then prepare a pit for a month. The pit for planting should be somewhere around 1 m in diameter and 80 cm in depth, it is better to make semicircular walls with sheer edges.

  • Apple tree loves the soil of normal acidity. If the soil is acidic, add lime or dolomite flour when digging. Lime is not combined with phosphate fertilizers, so there must be a gap of at least 3 weeks between them. Lime also should not come into contact with the roots.

  • Planting mixture should consist of fertile soil, organic and mineral fertilizers. The soil is mixed with fertilizer before you fill the landing pit with a third of it. You can apply fertilizer to the soil immediately when digging. The figure above shows how to lower a seedling into a pit. Fertilizers can serve as compost or humus, about 2 buckets per pit, somewhere around 1 kg of wood ash and superphosphate. Try to better mix the fertilizer with the soil. When we laid the garden, in the fall, when digging up the soil, manure was added and the trees were planted for another year.

  • It is not recommended to plant fresh manure in a hole, it harms the roots. Also, do not add fertilizer with nitrogen to the planting mixture, it will slow down the survival of your seedlings.

Hole for planting an apple tree. Photos from

Between rows you need to take about 6 m, and between trees in a row - at least 4 m (this distance is suitable for high-growth varieties, if your varieties are not strong-growing, you can take a distance less than).

Sparse tier crown type

3rd year

  • Laying the next tier. Depart from the first three branches about 50 cm and lay 2 branches directed in different directions.
  • All branches align, for this protruding shortened.
  • Competing shoots need to be removed, shortened conductor growth.
  • Bent branches are shortened to the ring if they begin to thicken the crown.

4th year
  • A skeletal branch of the third tier is laid at a distance of about 40-50 cm.
  • Also the conductor is shortened, excess branches are cut off on a ring, shoots are shortened. This is the skeleton of the crown.
  • After a few years, a single branch will determine its central place; the central conductor must be cut off. You will get a height that you should stick to later.

Reproduction of apple trees

Used for growing rootstocks for grafting or breeding new varieties.

This method is used if you want to get several varieties of apples from one seedling. An annual tree is planted in the fall under an inclination; in the spring it bends down and is pinned to the ground; Until the autumn you need to moisten the land abundantly, and before the frost how to warm the young roots. The following spring, the layers can be separated and planted in a permanent place.

Oryol striped

Ripens late in the fall. Large fruits. Variety resistant to scab. The fruits are large, the flesh is fine-grained, cream-colored. The color of the fruit during the removable maturity of green and yellow with a blurry pink blush.

Oryol striped. Photo from

At the time of consumer maturity, when the apples are left for at least one and a half months, the color becomes yellow with a green tint and pink blush. Taste is pronounced, sour-sweet, very juicy.

Sinap Orlovsky

Sinap Orlovsky. Photos from

The flesh of this variety is very juicy, yellowish with a green tint. Differs in good tastes. Apples moderately sweet, there is sourness. The aroma is barely noticeable. It is necessary to remove fruits from a tree at the end of September, and they will ripen somewhere by November, from this moment consumer maturity begins. Trees begin to produce fruits by the age of 5, fruit will be good, but how will the ovary (not every year). The variety is resistant to frost and scab.

Fruits are bright red with blurry green stripes. The tree is medium with a rounded crown.

Agrotechnika Apple

The main concern in the cultivation of apple trees is to eliminate soil acidity up to about neutral pH by introducing various limestone deoxidizers.

Если в толще почвы имеется глеевый горизонт – это наблюдается на сырых местах с близким стоянием грунтовых вод – от него яблоню желательно «отодвинуть» созданием насыпи.

Удобрение яблони.

Сразу обозначим главные правила для этой культуры.

1. Удобрение под яблоню не должно быть обильным и концентрированным.

It is better to fertilize a little annually than once to give a shock dose.

An apple tree is best to fertilize annually with small doses of compost or humus, just a few buckets under each tree, trying this time to pour out and dig in fertilizer to where it was not in the past.

Pristvolny circle can be divided in half or into three parts, and fertilize them one by one year after year.

It is not necessary to scatter the fertilizer and then dig it in evenly: it is enough to do it on a half-bayonet each bucket locally where you dumped it.

In an apple tree, roots can “find and thickly twist around” the accumulation of organic matter in the soil.

With this method of making organic, we simultaneously conduct a gentle, unhurried rejuvenation of the roots of the tree.

At the same time, the tree, firstly, is guaranteed to have time to fully restore the roots cut the day before, and secondly, these new young roots are given enough time to prove themselves.

What does not occur with the annual uniform fertilizer digging over the entire area of ​​the tree circle, which is too much stress for the tree.

Well, not to mention the fact that this rule of moderation in fertilizers relieves the fruit tree from fattening, when, instead of laying the buds of flower buds, it suddenly switches to growing long shoots for several years.

Wood trimming is an imbalance, a gardener's mistake, an excessive amount of nitrogen.

These numerous long shoots throughout the crown are of no value to us.

They only lead to a drop in yields through the thickening of the crown, so that the owner of such an apple tree will have to work a lot with shears to straighten the position and make the crown again evenly covered with fruit sprigs.

2. Used fertilizer should not be physiologically acidic.

Fruit growers make a big mistake, growing their garden on granular mineral fertilizers, even if they have a very favorable nutritional composition.

Acidification of the soil negates all the advantage of a good initial growth of a tree on a powerful planting pit, since it will certainly affect the depression of the body of an apple tree.

3. Fertilizer should be applied in a timely manner. Mid-autumn time - this is the best time. Approximately the first half of October (permissible at the end of September or in the second half of October).

Thus, fertilizer introduced from autumn performs a whole range of favorable effects on the tree:

  • autumn moderate cutting of the roots stimulates abundant fruiting in the next season,
  • the appearance of fertilizer in the soil adjusts the tree to “optimism” from the very spring (which is not so good at spring fertilization: the “setting” comes from the fall),
  • experiencing an acute nitrogen deficit at the end of the season for the normal maturation of shoots for winter (in particular for the formation of the waxy coating that is important for winter hardiness), the tree suddenly receives nitrogen at the right time and manages to “pull” it in by young roots and in November to prepare tissues for frost.

4. The best place to add organic matter is the edge of the crown projection and going beyond it. In other words, it is better to fertilize the periphery, where the youngest and active tree roots are located.

A mistake is to fertilize a small stem, even smaller than the crown projection.

If you do this, then, of course, the fertilizer will not disappear, but mostly thick old roots are located here: they absorb less, and, most importantly, it is already dangerous to touch them with a shovel.

On the periphery, the roots can be cut with a shovel boldly, and the return on fertilizer is greatest here.

Watering an apple tree.

Without summer watering a good harvest is not obtained.

Apples and pears are larger than cherries, and they need more water to form, besides this, the period of their most intensive increase falls on dry August, when the earth is already dried up by the sun and roots to great depths.

If you grow their large-fruited varieties and want to get the fruits in the best possible way: juicy, huge, fragrant, then watering is simply necessary.

Otherwise, you will have to wait long and patiently for a rainy summer ... Conclusion Consider that from watering any fruits become twice or three times larger than without watering. For apple and pear, this is essential.

Pruning apple trees.

It is better to choose some kind of simple crown form and with understanding to form it completely, than to form from your own tree it is not clear what (this is when a gardener seems to perform some correct methods on it, say, somewhere a branch will tie up in a horizontal position , he cuts another on the outer kidney for crown extension, somewhere a top will break out ..., and in general he has no plan, so he involuntarily postpones the “basic formation” indefinitely).

Even when in the first 2-3 years we allow the apple to grow freely, in order to get enough skeletal branches to form, we still have a sight in our head for a specific crown shape.

"Itself" is nothing but "rogatin" on any apple tree grows. The presence of a “rag” is an improperly formed apple tree. Crohn 3-4-branch bowl is very convenient for our summer resident with its short stature.

And in general, it is a sample of fruit literacy: due to good illumination and sloping branches, with proper pruning, the bowl has great potential for fruiting.

The disadvantage is that it is not so easy to form, it is a crown for an already fairly experienced farmer.

It is necessary to keep yourself from the insidious temptation to leave in addition to the created extremely modest skeleton branches "just in case": if you at least leave something, the bowl will disappear.

It will not develop and will become limp, since the branches forming it are competitive only when there is nothing else in the crown besides them.

Otherwise they are noncompetitive, as the bottommost and outgoing at a gentle angle.

The difficulty lies in maintaining the desired angle of inclination of each of them, so that it has approximately equal growth force.

And if one of them starts to fall behind and grow thin and you do nothing (do not lift it up), then the difference will quickly increase.

Another feature of the bowl: since it all goes as wide as possible, then each tree will require as a result an area of ​​not less than 4 m? 4 m (although at first you can plant and denser, based on the inevitable rejection of someone).

The spindle crown is, on the contrary, extremely simple crown for beginners.

Its meaning is that when laying the skeletal branches, they are first allowed to grow in the crown freely for 2–3 years, and then they are given an almost horizontal position as a garter for pegs driven into the ground.

At the same time trying to skeletal branches were directed evenly in all directions.

The angles of discharge - about 60-70 degrees, with this inclination of the branches continue to grow at the ends, although not too much.

All appearing strong overgrowing branches - tops and the like - are cut out or break out still green.

The created structure must be constantly maintained, cleaned of thickening.

If a branch bent down under the weight of the fruit, it is then shortened almost to the bend and replaced with one of its shoots.

Once around 5 years old fruiting lateral branches rejuvenate, replacing with younger ones.

The advantage of the crown spindle - is that all the branches eventually have a position close to the horizontal, and therefore, are aimed at fruiting.

Additional stimulation of fruiting is the breaks of the ends of the overgrowing branches on all skeletal branches, it is carried out in July along green shoots.

The main task of a novice shaper is not to thicken its spindle, but to limit the number of skeletal branches to a reasonable number, taking care of their light.

It is better to cut than not to cut it: cut the extra ones firmly on the ring.

Previously, it was especially warned that varieties are most suitable for spindles, which come to fruition early, but today they are not in the assortment of most other nurseries.

Sharpness is a sign of the modern variety. And it is precisely for them that this crown is intended, as it permits the use of precaution to the fullest.

Such trees can be planted at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other in a row at 3 m between rows.

With strong fruiting, thinning of the ovaries is mandatory, since young trees have a small reserve of forces, which is fraught with a sharp periodicity of fruiting (the appearance of apples after a year).

The lack of a spindle is that it can become very high over time and inconvenient to maintain.

Shortening the center conductor does not give anything; on the contrary, it can enhance the growth of the upper part of the crown.

Effect stock.

Very often in the nursery, where you will buy seedlings, apples will be grafted only on dwarf rootstocks.

Why is this happening? In the modern world practice of apple orchards, there is a clear tendency towards a decrease in the size of crowns.

The main advantage of dwarfs is that they can be placed denser, thereby quickly obtaining a significant yield per unit area in the varietal varieties.

The disadvantage is in their relative fragility compared with the usual apple tree.

Tree description

The tree is distinguished by its rapid growth, smooth greenish bark, and brown, thin shoots. Crohn rounded, sprawling, with straight, not too thickly growing branches, the growth of branches directed from the trunk upwards.

The foliage is dark green, in the form of a wide oval, with a jagged edge. Leaves are opaque, located on long petioles. The entire lamina is covered with thin (like a mesh) veins with a pronounced central vein, clearly separating the sheet in half along.

Fruit Description

Fruits of an apple-tree of an equal roundish form, the average size: weight fluctuates from 60 to 100 grams. Glossy peel covered with a touch of wax. During ripeness, the fruits become yellow-green in color with a bright pink-red blush. Apple distinctive feature - a swollen funnel with a tubercle of brown color. Cream-colored flesh, dense, juicy, fine-grained structure. The taste of sweet and sour apples with a pleasant aroma. In a large heart, open seed chambers, seeds are dark brown, small.

“Screen” is a self-infertile variety, it is perfectly pollinated by other varieties of apple trees growing next to it. Suitable pollinators there will be the same autumn varieties: Oryol Striped, Scala, Uspenskoye, and Sun.


Fruits are well stored, but if they are allowed to overripe, the shelf life will decrease. Store the harvest in a cold place (cellar, unheated balcony). Thus, it can also be consumed fresh in the winter: a shelf life of up to five months.

Fruits are suitable for processing: they make juices, compotes, jams and preserves.

Choosing a place

Culture is unpretentious to the composition of the soil, but it is better if it is fertile and neutral. Poor neighborhood - closely growing old trees with an extensive root system, they will deprive the sapling with nutrition and moisture, close from sunlight. Place to pick open, not prone to drafts.

Stepwise landing process

Autumn landing. A couple of months before planting, dig a hole in order to sod the soil. The size of the pit about 50x50 cm, focus on the length of the roots. The best time to plant in the fall is after leaf fall. During this period, the sapling will begin to actively build up the root system, and the aerial part will be at rest until spring.

In order not to wake dormant buds, do not put fertilizer on the bottom of the pit. To support the seedling, you need to drive a peg one and a half meters long into the bottom of the pit. The roots of a young tree straightened, placed on the bottom of the hole and covered with earth. At the same time, the root neck is flush with the edge of the pit, and the soil is carefully tamped down.

A sapling is tied to a peg and must be watered, even if it rains. After watering, the land can significantly subside: you should still pour the soil. Closer to winter, mineral fertilizers are scattered over the surface of the ground — they will lie under the snow until spring, and then they will seep to the roots with melt water, feeding them. Spring landing characterized by the fact that fertilizer must be put in the planting hole, if the soil is acidic, wood ash is added. “Ideal Universal” can be used as a fertilizer: it is mixed with fertile soil, a pit is placed on the bottom and a bucket of water is poured there.

The seedling is lowered to the bottom, straightening the roots, covered with soil. After they carry out watering - when the soil has subsided, add more. The root neck of the seedling is flush with the surface. To protect the tree from the wind, pegs are driven in a circle.

Seasonal care features

Caring for an apple tree begins with planting. If you planted it before winter, do not forget to sprinkle fertilizer, so that in the spring the tree will already absorb useful substances. If in the spring - immediately after planting, the trunk should be cut to a length of two or three buds, this will provoke branches to active growth. The sapling also shortens the lateral branches, but only if they are longer than the central stem.

Soil care

In the spring, under a tree in the absence of precipitation, once a week they pour out a bucket of water for a month and a half. Then watering is reduced to two to three weeks. In the heat and drought, they pour water once every two weeks with two buckets of water.

After watering, the trunk circle is covered with mulch: compost, rotted manure, biohumus, straw or dry grass is put on top. Mulch, firstly, will serve as an ideal environment for earthworms, which will do the work for you to loosen the soil, and secondly, will restrain the growth of weeds. From the loose soil of the root system of an apple tree, it is easier to extract moisture, food and oxygen, therefore from time to time it should be wielded with a chopper. Weeds also need to get rid of, so they do not deprive the growing seedling with nutrients.

In April, the first dressing is carried out: five buckets of humus with half a liter of urea are laid out in a tree near the trunk as a mulch. A month later, the leaves are sprayed with an aqueous solution of sodium humate (1 tablespoon liters per 10 liters of water): 10 liters per tree.

During the flowering period make this solution:

  • urea - 150 g,
  • superphosphate - 250 g,
  • potassium sulfate - 200 g,
  • stir in 50 liters of water, insist week.
Four solution buckets are brought under each tree - if it rains heavily at this time, it is necessary to bring the components in a dry state into the tree trunk circle.

On hot summer days, the leaves are sprayed, adding wood ash to the water.

Fight against diseases and pests

In early spring, preventive treatment is carried out for fungal diseases and insect larvae: trees are sprayed with a solution of urea (700 g per 10 liters of water).

The second insect treatment is done after the trees have faded. The treatment is carried out with a 10% solution of any insecticide drug (Actellic, Karbofos). Against diseases, preventive treatments are carried out. preparations containing copper.

In the autumn, after harvesting, the trees are sprayed for the third time - with 5% urea solution. Spraying need to have time to hold up to leaf fall. The solution will protect against diseases and parasites.

For insect control you can attract birds to the garden - if you have troughs hanging every year, the birds themselves will know where there is food for them. If there is a need for special preparations, the following will help to control pests: Benzofosat and Karate Zeon - both drugs can be used during the flowering period, as they are safe for bees.

The variety "Screen" is resistant to many diseases, including scab, often affecting fruit trees. But during frequent precipitations there is still danger. Prevention is carried out in early spring using Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride or copper sulfate. An effective remedy against fungal diseases - drug "Hom".

We will understand when you need to prune an apple tree. For the first time pruning spend sapling after landing, shortening the skeletal shoots that are longer than the trunk. According to the rules of pruning it is carried out either in spring or in autumn. Summer can not be cut off, because during this period there is an active circulation of juice inside.

Thinner branches will take a pruner, if you need to cut strong and thick branches - it is better to take a saw. All tools must be sharply honed, otherwise the edges of the slices will heal for a long time. For processing cuts do garden var. You should know that the old dry branches are treated immediately, smearing first with a mixture of copper sulphate and lime (1:10). Young flexible branches are processed by the barb the next day.

After the first pruning, the tree can rest from the procedure for two or three years. Remove only damaged shoots. Subsequently, the branches are shortened by two thirds, forming a crown: remove the branches that interfere with the growth of the main shoots, which grow inside the crown and get out of shape.

Frost and Rodent Protection

To protect against frost, the trunk circle covers the mulch: peat and compost in equal parts. The trunks of the trees are whitewashed and covered with spruce leaves, tightly wrapped so that the rodents do not get there. Trunks need to be tied up until the bark of the tree is so hard that it is no longer a treat for mice and rabbits.

Lower branches of adult apple trees smear the following solution: 100 g of wood glue, 0.5 kg of copper sulphate, 1 kg of clay and 3 kg of hydrated lime - all this per 10 liters of water. In winter, it is advisable to trample snow in a circle and remove it from the branches so that they do not break under its weight.

Apple "Screen" received good reviews from gardeners, it is eagerly grown, especially in regions with a cold climate. Садоводы отмечают устойчивость к болезням, высокую урожайность и прекрасные вкусовые характеристики.