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How to propagate streptokarpus by dividing the bush or grafting

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Propagation streptokarpus quite simple. It does not require much effort and time. Basically at home multiply streptocarpus leaf. To be more precise, part of the sheet. This is its main difference from the reproduction of Saintpaulia, its closest relative. There are several techniques of such reproduction streptokarpusa. Quite often, a technique is used in which the sheet is cut into equal parts and landed in the ground with the lower part of the central vein. With this method, one young plant can be obtained from each leaf fragment. But I prefer, and I suggest you try a way in which several plants can be obtained from one small piece of streptocarpus.

How to propagate streptokarpus part of the sheet

First you need to pick a healthy, well-developed sheet. It is not necessary to cut it all. It is enough to cut a small part. The main thing is that on this part there should be good (large) longitudinal veins, diverging from the central vein. But the photo shows that this fragment of the streptocarpus leaf has three large veins on each side.

Then the central vein must be removed, we do not need it. Make it a very sharp, clean knife. An ordinary stationery knife works well. Pre-wipe it with alcohol or calcine it over a fire so that no muck gets into the cuts. What happens is visible in the photo.

Then everything is simple. The resulting parts of the streptocarpus leaf are planted in a suitable container. Better if it is wide and shallow. Although it does not really matter, it's just more convenient. To speed up root formation, side slices can be tugged with root powder or moistened with aloe juice. Strongly bury leaves in the ground, it makes no sense. It will be enough to deepen them by about 5 mm. The soil for propagation of streptocarpus leaf suitable for any on the basis of peat. The main thing that it was easy. It is best to take the same that is used for growing streptokarpusov and Saintpaulia. But suitable and universal land for seedlings. The result can be seen in the photo.

Now it is desirable to create seedlings greenhouse conditions. Many growers can do without it. But if you create such conditions, the chances of success are multiplied. At home, you can quite easily make a simple but effective greenhouse. It is enough to bend arcs of soft wire and stick them into the ground along the edges of the pot. In my case it is oblong, so the arcs are arranged in a row. If you have a round pot, then the spirit of the arcs will be sufficiently located crosswise.

Now you can put a plastic bag on the design, and you will get a greenhouse in miniature.

Then you need to put the resulting structure in a warm (approximately + 20-22 degrees) and bright place. Waiting for the emergence of sprouts will take a long time. It happens that even under the most favorable conditions, the first shoots appear only after 50 - 60 days. During this time, you must constantly monitor the state of soil moisture. It is equally dangerous to both dry it and re-moisten. The ground should always be slightly wet. As practice shows, then with the observance of the recommended temperature conditions and the use of an improvised greenhouse, one light moistening once a week is enough.

Important! Moisture should not fall on the leaves.

In theory, each vein of a part of a streptocarpus leaf can sprout. But in practice, this is not always the case. In our case, six veins, but the germination of four shoots can be considered a good result.

When to plant young streptokarpus? Sprouts appear unfriendly, so you need to focus on the one that appeared last. When its longer leaf grows to at least 2.5 centimeters, they can all be seated separately. The root system of streptocarpus grows very quickly, so they can be transplanted immediately into a large pot (10 centimeters in diameter). The next transplant will hold after flowering.

Streptocarpus Reproduction - Video

You can find in the encyclopedia with the care of Streptokarpus.

Plant streptokarpus will be in a mixture of perlite and peat in a ratio of one to one. This method is not new, this landless mixture is used for quite some time and successfully. If there is no such mixture at hand, or there is no time to cook it, you can use the ground for adult plants, although this is not the best option.

It often happens that we have one sheet, and we want to get more from it. What can be done? Cut off a piece of streptocarpus leaf along the central vein at a distance of 1 cm from it. The sheet can be up to 6 veins, from which the kids will go. But in our case, the sheet is not perfect, with damage, so it is possible that the sheet will rot. To leave the chances of rooting streptocarpus, we divide the sheet into parts, then some of them can take root.

Streptokarpus cuttings can not be dried. If the sheet is large, you can divide the cut fragment along twice as long. The main thing is not to confuse, and not to plant it upside down.

But that's not all! When cutting fragments of a sheet of home streptokarpus along the central vein, try not to bring the cut to the top, because we will also root it. Before this, remove all dry and damaged parts.

Well, we also use part of the leaf with the main vein for rooting. It can be divided into 3-5 parts, depending on the size of the sheet. Do not confuse, and do not accidentally plant the stump of streptokarpus wrong side!

Brief description of the flower

Streptokarpus is one of the most elegant representatives of the Gesnerian family, known to flower growers for indoor plants such as epification, gloxinia, azalea, and many others. Care and requirements for the maintenance of this plant are the same as for most of the Gesneriaceae.

This is a fairly voluminous bushy plant with elongated sheets of saturated but pure green color. Sheets can be up to 20 cm in length, so that its contents will require a large pot and enough space.

The streptokarpus flower deserves special attention: these are very beautiful terry, semi-double or regular bells from 2 to 9 cm in diameter. The color gamut of streptokarpus is simply the widest - from ordinary monochromatic colors to an ombré and various patterns. It blooms just as wildly as it grows, and about one hundred flowers can grow on one adult bush. In this case, the smaller the flower - the more of them in one inflorescence. The flower body is located on a long pedicel that rises above the foliage.

In the natural environment, the flowering period falls in the spring-summer period, but at home there are no clear boundaries between the flowering and the rest periods. By prolonging the day by artificial means, using a lamp or a lamp, for example, it is possible to achieve flowering all year round.

The easiest way to reproduce - the division of the bush

The most suitable for streptokarpus reproduction at home is carried out by dividing the bush. As the name implies, the division is not a full-fledged reproduction, but rather, the seating of one large shrub over several flowerpots.

This method is applicable mainly to large overgrown plants. By itself, division is an integral part of care for streptocarpus and is carried out at least once every 2-3 years. Neglect of this rule most often leads to two types of consequences:

  • Streptokarpus grows excessively and begins to fade in a small flowerpot due to a lack of nutrients,
  • growing streptokarpus repeatedly transplanted into a larger pot. Soon this leads to the fact that the plant ceases to bloom, because the flower stalks can no longer break through the veil of leaves.

Terms for breeding

For the streptocarpus flower, reproduction in spring and summer is preferred. This is a time of high activity of metabolic processes, which is very important for rooting and regeneration of root segments damaged during transplantation.

This rule is not so strict for room streptocarpus, the biorhythms of which are often not tied to the change of seasons. In this case, the division can be made at any convenient time.

The state of dormancy occurs in plants with a decrease in daylight in the autumn-winter period. During this period, any manipulation associated with seeding, division or fertilizer is contraindicated. All that a flower needs at such a time is infrequent watering. The fact that a state of rest has come can be understood by the long absence of flowering.

Fission technology

Dividing a bush is a process that will take some time, so it’s better to stock up on a couple of hours right away, especially if you are doing it for the first time. The division technology includes three stages:

  1. Identify strong points of growth. It is possible to determine the growth point from a combination of several closely spaced legs of sheets that come out of one bush head. Sheets should be strong, looking from the center outward - on such segments and our bush will share.
  2. Actually division. Before dividing the bush, it is necessary to remove it from the pot and as much as possible to rid the roots of sticking soil, trying not to damage them. The photo clearly shows two strong points of growth, according to them and the need to separate the plant. To do this, you must carefully cut the head of the bush between the right and left parts and separate the parts from each other.
  3. Lightening bush At this stage, you need to get rid of old leaves and thickening weak points of growth. Old yellowed leaves that appear after flowering usually do not constitute a problem. They are easily separated from the plant, but the main thing - the need for their removal does not cause doubts in the grower.

But it turns out that young leaves can also harm the bush as a whole. Under the weak points of growth refers to smaller sheets that appear randomly, sometimes from the place where there should be a peduncle.

Such leaves grow as if inside a bush and towards each other, compacting it and making it more vulnerable to a fungal infection, for example. They also interfere with flower stalkers.

How to choose the capacity and plant delenki

It all depends on the size of the plant: the more it is - the more space it will need. The plant should have enough soil, and the root system should be freely located in the tank. Basically, disposable containers with a volume of 0.25–0.35 l are used for the seating arrangements.

First, the container is filled with the substrate to about half, after which the root of the plant is lowered there and evenly added dropwise from all sides. At the end, the ground is slightly tamped, but not hard - just to fix the above-ground part of the flower.

Reproduction leaf cuttings

In addition to dividing the streptocarpus bush, it may be reproduced by leaf. Leaf grafting is a difficult and painstaking method that requires patience and a few special skills from the decision maker. The process has several stages:

  1. Choosing the right sheet.
  2. Sheet cuttings.
  3. Rooting.

How and when the cuttings are harvested.

  • Select sheet.
First of all, for grafting, you need to select the appropriate sheet. The leaf should be quite large (about 10 cm), but not old, as the old leaf may simply fade, and too young may turn out to be too weak.

  • Cuttings.
Reproduction streptokarpus not a whole leaf, but part of it. To this end, the leaf separated from the mother plant is harvested on the cuttings: the leaf is completely cut off at the central core on both sides, after which the central core is thrown away. Then the sheets are cut so that on each of the halves there are at least 6 longitudinal ribs and they are not less than 5 cm long. The resulting cutting is immersed in the ground with the lower end of 1-2 cm.

  • Treatment.
Sometimes cuttings are treated with special growth enhancers or hormonal rooting agents, such as Kornerost, Kornevin, or Radiopharm, but it is important not to overdo it with such tools. It will be optimal to dip the cutting in the medium, then dry with a napkin and immerse in the soil.
  • Selection of soil.
The cuttings should develop well in the ground for the Saintpaulia, but if you want to help the plant, you can take a special rooting mixture, which consists of sand and peat in equal parts.

Rooting process

The rooting process is very long and can last up to two months. For comparison, the epistations belonging to the same family take root in the sheet during the week. In addition, rooting should not be allowed to drift, and the container with cuttings requires careful maintenance.

It will be most convenient to build a small greenhouse consisting of a container with cuttings and polyethylene - this will facilitate the care of plants.

Rules for the care of cuttings:

  1. Humidity. Before the roots appeared, the cuttings had no specialized organs through which they could absorb water. The process of moisture absorption is performed by the whole body of the leaf, so you need to check that there is enough moisture.
  2. Shine. Greenhouse with cuttings should be placed in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight, otherwise the plant will wither.
  3. Watering. Water cuttings need about once a week in a special way - along the edges of the tank. This is done for optimal distribution of moisture in the pot.
  4. Disease. Greenhouse conditions are good for germination, but they are also ideal for the reproduction of harmful bacteria that can destroy the flower at the cutting stage. To prevent the development of pathogenic microorganisms, before planting the substrate is boiled for 3-5 minutes, another method of prevention is weekly spraying the cuttings with bactericides.

Planting rooted seedlings

Streptokarpus seedlings have two leaves of unequal sizes. It is necessary to replant when the larger of the leaves reaches a length of at least 3 cm. There are no special requirements for planting. Sapling 2-3 cm long planted in a container with a volume of 150-200 ml. The next transplant is made after the first flowering.

Reproduction streptokarpusov

Today we will talk about how to propagate the sort you like with a piece of leaf. It is desirable to do this in the spring, during the period of active growth.

Reproduction of streptocarpus leaf cuttings. Generally, if you can select enough leaves for breeding, you can grow new plants from leaf cuttings - cut the sheet obliquely with a clean knife, cut the upper part so that you have a cutting 10 centimeters in your hands, dry the cutting a little, process the sections with charcoal powder and root.

Reproduction of streptocarpus with a piece of leaf. And if you were sent by mail the long-awaited and single leaf of the sort you like, you can cut it with a sharp knife or scissors into several fragments 3-5 cm long. Fragments must be taken from the middle of the sheet, the tip must be removed anyway will not give. By the way, the leaves of streptokarpus well tolerate shipment if the lower section of the sheet is placed in a cotton swab dipped in water and wrapped with foil. And all this is additionally packed in a plastic bag.

If the sheet is very wide, the lower part of the fragment can be cut into a cone so that it is more convenient to immerse it in the soil, and the extreme sides of the lamina when contacting the soil do not rot before its time.

Mixture for rooting cuttings should be as easy as possible. For example, mix the soil for saintpaulia and vermiculite in a 1: 1 ratio. You can even just "overdo it" with vermiculite, it will be even better.

The lower cut of the fragment (powdered with coal) must be placed only 0.5 cm into the ground. So children are formed faster, and it will be easier for them to "come out" to the surface. And, again, less risk of rotting sheet plate. After planting, only a small amount of water should be watered, only so that they can be fixed in the ground. And then, placed in a hothouse, cuttings is better to just spray from a sprayer, rather than watered. Do not be afraid to slightly dry your "kindergarten", nothing will happen to it!

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