Spathiphyllum transplanting at home will not be difficult for experienced growers. However, for beginners, this task may initially be difficult. You need to know about which soil to choose, what size of the pot will be optimal - and, finally, when replanting “female happiness”, so as not to cause him harm by negligence. In order to do everything right, you should be more familiar with the specifics of this plant.
Do I need to replant spathiphyllum after purchase
The first agrotechnical event, to which a recently purchased spathiphyllum is “exposed” - a transplant after purchase. Of course, the transport ground, in which plants are usually put up for sale, should become a temporary phenomenon, since it does not contain the valuable nutrients that a flower needs for a full life and health.
Upon learning of this, inexperienced owners are in a hurry to transplant the flower as soon as possible, but this is not possible. He needs some time to cope with the stress associated with a change in habitat conditions.
This may seem strange, but the flowers very sensitively react to a change of place and often get ill at first until they get used to the new environment. That is why they should be transplanted no earlier than two or three weeks after purchase.
Is it possible to repot spathiphyllum during flowering
Is it possible to replant this indoor culture during flowering - such options are valid, but highly undesirable. In the extreme case, if a florist suddenly got a flowering plant (for example, as an unexpected gift), but he was attacked by harmful insects or diseases - you can try to make a transplant using a known "transshipment method", trying not to damage the root system. This will help at least in part to preserve the nutrients in the soil, necessary blooming Spathiphyllum.
If everything is in order with him, transplantation during active flowering or budding is by no means possible. Foliage can quickly turn black or curl. Most likely, the death of the plant will not happen, but it will hurt for a very long time and will hardly please with flowering in the near future.
How often do I need to transplant
It is recommended once a year to plant spathiphyllum with transplanting shoots into separate containers. Sometimes a different frequency is indicated: two or three years. Here a lot depends on the age of the flower, its size and current state. All this must be taken into account when starting the transplant process.
For example, when the roots start to grow very quickly, they twist an earthen ball inside the pot. If this happens, the spathiphyllum loses its vitality and ceases to bloom.
For a better guideline, you can do the following: young flowers are transplanted annually (until they are three years old), and adults and very large ones - once every two years or less.
When best to do it
When you need to transplant a plant - certainly in the spring - before bud formation begins. An exception to the rules may be the sanitary treatment of an old plant that is transplanted on an urgent basis: here the exceptions to the rules are the same as in the question related to flowering.
And, of course, the temperature of the air during the “procedure” should be optimal: from +20 to 24C, so that the flower can bear the natural stress well and quickly take root in the new pot.
Spathiphyllum pot - choice and preparation
How to choose capacity for transplant spathiphyllum? So, the spathiphyllum pot should be slightly larger than the previous one. It is not recommended to place the plant in too large a container, because its roots will take a long time to fill its space. The specificity of this flower is as follows: until the root system fills the entire volume of the pot, alas, it makes no sense to expect the buds to appear. The optimal size of the container - 10-15 centimeters in volume.
Also, when choosing a container, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of drainage holes in its bottom. If they are not there, it’s a cache. In the case when it is plastic and the gardener was very pleased - the drainage holes in it can be made independently using a red-hot screwdriver. The bottom of the tank is lined with drainage: a large pebble or a crumb of red brick, a layer of about 2 cm.
There is an opinion among gardeners that it is not necessary to put drainage into a clay pot. However, in the case of young plants that have not yet strengthened, it is better not to abandon drainage (for the sake of safety).
What soil is needed
For transplantation of "female happiness" friable, lush and nutritious soil is suitable. Land can be purchased at a flower shop: there are always compositions available for free for a given group of plants: aroid or tropical flowering plants.
It is recommended to add additional fertilizer to the finished compound: the top dressing may consist of a small amount of compost. It also does not hurt to add coarse sand. The optimum acidity level of any substrate used should be 6.5.
You can prepare the soil yourself, taking the following components:
- sod land - 2 parts,
- sheet soil - 1 part,
- a little brick crumb
- a small amount of conifer bark,
- phosphate fertilizer.
At the same time, the last four components are additives, the percentage of which should not exceed 10 of the total composition of the mixture. There is another cooking option: the purchased substrate is mixed with the bark of the conifer, vermiculite, and humus in a ratio of 5: 1: 1: 0.5. In this case, growers need to be careful when adding humus: if you overdo it, the roots can dry out.
Tools for work
It would seem that it is not so important what the treatment of spathiphyllum is at home, but this is not quite so. On numerous forums devoted to floriculture, such phrases are often found: “I cut the leaves of a flower during transplantation and he began to wither.” To prevent this from happening, transplanting spathiphyllum should always be carried out with sharp scissors.
A sharp object does not "heal" the edges of the foliage when it is removed, and the affected areas will heal much faster. Also, except for sharp scissors, you will need a small spatula (it gently hooks the earthen clod before removing the flower from the container), a fine sprayer and rubber gloves.
It is better to work in rubber gloves than in cotton gloves - first of all, for a flower, because there is a danger of not feeling its fragile roots and severely damaging them.
Preparing Spathiphyllum for Transplant
All indoor flowers first need to prepare for transplanting. The land is abundantly watered. After a while, the earth lump begins to be pulled with a spatula, and the flower is removed from the old container along with the lump. Since the root system always braids the land in which it is located, it must be separated during transplantation.
In order for the separation to be successful, you first need to clear the roots of the old earth, cut off the sluggish and old leaves - in one step, so that the “wounds” of the flower heal faster. The roots are also cut off, removing rotten or too long ones.
How to plant spathiphyllum, if it is large and has many shoots? The main thing is to clean the roots and cut them into several parts so that each delenka remains with a healthy root. When a thick overgrow is formed in one pot, it is best to prepare separate pots with fertile soil for each process in advance.
A ball of roots should not be cut with scissors: it is “unraveled” only by hand, carefully watching which part of the spine it belongs to. Since the roots of the spathiphyllum are very flexible and thin, it will not be difficult to sort them out.
It is important not to forget to sprinkle all the pruned places in the processes and the mother plant with the help of charcoal in the form of powder. This is an excellent disinfectant and healing agent that will help the root system to recuperate as quickly as possible and enter the phase of active growth.
How to transplant to another pot
How to transplant spathiphyllum at home in another pot? On top of the prepared drainage layer is placed a layer of moist nutrient soil - about a third of the tank, in which a small hole is made - for the flower. A scion is placed in it, and its roots are gently spread. Near the stem, the ground is slightly crushed, so that the appendix stands steadily.
Next, earth is gradually added to the pot so that the root system has no voids left. Since the fresh soil will settle a little, you will need to add it so that the spathiphyllum does not stagger. What “growth” of the container is the best - the height of the pots should be chosen, focusing on the length of the shoots. At the end of the procedure, you must take a fine spray bottle and spray the foliage of the plant.
Care after transplant
Since the spathiphyllum after transplantation is always weakened, for the first time after it he will need a large amount of moisture. In order for a young tropical plant to properly acclimatize, a greenhouse above it from an ordinary plastic bag will help it to settle down. Caring for a flower in a “cap” is simple: you will need to air it and water it in a timely manner.
If it is wrong to care for the spathiphyllum that was recently transplanted, at some point you may find that it has lowered the leaves. They can wilt or wither, and the reason for this, most often, is the lack of moisture. In this case, watering should be abundant, and spraying the foliage - regular, but no frills. It is necessary to focus on the state of the top layer of earth in the pot: as soon as it dries out slightly, the time has come for water treatments.
You can not keep a container with a plant on the south side, since an excessive amount of sunlight often causes it to wilt. The best options are to place the pot on a northern, western or eastern window sill in a house or apartment. It also happens that the windows face only south. Then the flower will need regular shading.
The optimum temperature indicator in the room should be in the summer - from 20 to 22 o C, in winter - from 16 to 20 o C. With a higher temperature, you need to ensure that the earth in the pot does not dry out, control the humidity and spray the leaves. Since there are always drainage holes and a drain pan in the “right” pot, it is necessary to promptly drain excess liquid from it after it has been watered. Usually, it appears in the pan after 40 minutes.
With regular “bays” and waterlogging of a clod, the plant often has dangerous fungal diseases (including black root rot) that are very difficult to treat.
In winter, the number of irrigations should be halved, as well as spraying. For lighting in the period of autumn and winter, when the light day becomes short, it is recommended to use fitolampu.
The application of specialized fertilizers usually starts in March and ends in October. These are complex, balanced formulations that are applied after a water treatment, once a week, during the active season, and at rest, no more than once a month.
With proper care, the spathiphyllum will please the owner with fast growth and excellent flowering, and a correct transplant can prolong his life for many years.
We recommend watching the video about spathiphyllum transplantation:
As you can see, it is not so difficult to transplant a spathiphyllum, and the main thing in the process is attention and accuracy. We hope our advice will help you keep “Women's Happiness” in a flourishing state for as long as possible. Please ask any questions you may have on the topic in the comments. Good luck and comfort to your home!
Spathiphyllum pot: selection and preparation
New capacity for a flower is selected, being guided by a simple rule, - the pot has to be a little more previous. The fact is that a developed root system, tightly gripping the soil, actively forms an earthen room. If, however, move the spathiphyllum to a volume that is too voluminous, flowering can take a long time (until the roots are located in the whole volume). With a gradual increase in the size of such difficulties does not arise, and the flower develops without extra effort. For this pick up the container with a diameter of 10-15 cm. Choosing a new pot and making sure that it has a drainage hole, drainage is placed on the bottom. To do this, large pebbles, expanded clay or brick dust, laid in a layer of 1.5-2 cm, will be suitable. Practice shows that many gardeners, using clay pots, do not use drainage. A strong plant is not afraid, but in the case of a young and still fragile specimen it is still better to err.